The sublime gastronomic address to absolutely try in Liège

Food and gastronomy

In the small village of Fontin, in Liège, hides a surprising address not to be missed for anything in the world: L’Air de Rien.

Here, you can enjoy sophisticated grilled cuisine, prepared by chef Stéphane Diffels. Described as a “singular chef” according to Michelin, it is true that something emerges from this robust man with the long beard that we rarely come across: authenticity, the real thing. Not that overused word that we find too often, like a catch-all adjective. But the real taste of passion, simplicity and sincerity, which inevitably gives an unparalleled flavor to the plate.

The art of never overdoing it

Humble and unfussy… that’s where the real genius always lies. Which doesn’t mean we’ve skimped on elegance… Opened in 2009, the address underwent a real transformation two years ago for a 2.0 version. high-flying. In the program ? A decor that gives pride of place to natural materials (clay, wood, steel, etc.). The old farm, which has been completely refurbished, now looks like a little architectural jewel with raw and refined minimalism.

Inside, furniture in beige and taupe hues, noble materials and a layout of rooms organized according to different floors and different spaces (sometimes facing the kitchens, sometimes on the mezzanine). So much so that we have the impression of evolving in a highly designed labyrinth. The must ? The tables located just in front of the kitchens visible through a large bay window. There, you can enjoy the spectacle of the chef concocting his delicious smoked preparations in front of a crackling fire. Lighted fermentation jars decorate the shelves to provide a welcoming and comforting tableau.

Complex and amazing flavors

But let’s talk about the most interesting, the most important: the menu! Here, a rather seductive little eccentricity, there is no menu. We are surprised. Trust above all. A totally assumed decision by the chef who wishes to encourage us to get out of our culinary knowledge and prejudices. We find ourselves enjoying the kohlrabi with its hint of lilac, but also the sweetbread thanks to its perfect cooking and its hint of rhubarb, mirabelle plum and beetroot. The agreements are complex and surprising but all work perfectly, according to a controlled taste balance. The barbecue cooking of meat, fish and poultry is of high precision, a true guarantee of quality. An important place is also left to fruits and vegetables. The proof, it is possible to opt for a vegetarian menu, the chef adapts.

The seasonal products come as much as possible from small local producers, giving pride of place to local products while not skimping on more noble ingredients such as caviar. The dishes change over the weeks so that the menu is quickly renewed to constantly offer new original creations. What more can be said, except that the food and wine pairing is up to the plate with a fine selection of organic and natural wines with sometimes surprising labels such as the “Bob Singlar” from Domaine de la Mongestine with the effigy of a cartoon boar. In short, this is the address to have a real good time. Not just the one that won’t disappoint you, but the must-have good plan to try for an experience you’ll remember for a long time. So, we book?

Info:

Where ? Place du Vieux Tilleul 14, 4130 Fontin

When ? Tuesday evening, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday noon and evening, Saturday evening. Closed on sunday and monday.

On the menu ? The “Let go” menu: €95

Wines à la carte or “Let yourself be done by the sommelier” option: €51

For lunch, lunch formula at €45 excluding drinks

To find out more about the address or to reserve a table, go to lairderien.be

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